3DBODY.TECH 2023 - Paper 23.45

S. Gill et al., "Building Novel Dynamic Pattern Theory via 3D Body Scanning Data", Proc. of 3DBODY.TECH 2023 - 14th Int. Conf. and Exh. on 3D Body Scanning and Processing Technologies, Lugano, Switzerland, 17-18 Oct. 2023, #45, https://doi.org/10.15221/23.45.


Building Novel Dynamic Pattern Theory via 3D Body Scanning Data


Simeon GILL 1, Carol MCDONALD 2, Katy SCHILDMEYER 3, Dana TODD 4,5

1 The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK;
2 Gneiss Concept, Washougal WA, USA;
3 KS Apparel Design, Utah, USA;
4 Balodana, Illinois, USA;
5 OCAC Open Circle Apparel Coalition, Illinois, USA


Is it possible to build a well-fitting and functional pair of pants “from the ground up” via a 3D scan of a human? Body scanning provides opportunities to build more robust body-to-pattern drafting and product design theories. The practices provided can allow garment pattern blocks to be defined with much clearer relationships to the body, using body regions and understanding of body shape and fit requirements. However, the current technology for body scanning merely replicates existing practices for sizing or product development measurement, with little focus on how this technology can significantly and accurately evolve computer pattern drafting practices. This research explores how enhanced data coming from body scanning can support pattern blocks for trousers which are developed more uniquely to the body, enhancing both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure market needs.
Body measurement files and OBJ scan files were collected using multiple leading mobile scan brands. The challenges of validating and verifying the measurements utilizing the OBJs are discussed. The issues fell into two main categories: variance of measurement definitions and techniques, and the geometry of the mesh itself. The geometry of mesh can lead to approximations of measurement locations which have an impact on pattern drafting. The uses of the OBJs beyond visual representations are presented.
Applying novel measurement extraction techniques to OBJ scan files, this research uses Rhino and Grasshopper software to extract measurements that drive a parameterized trouser pattern. Clearly- defined requirements were set for extraction, and the parametric block was established in Seamly2D® open-source pattern cutting software.
This research illustrates the advantages of using novel approaches and enhanced measurement techniques to develop pattern theory that uniquely reflects the body size, shape, and proportion of the wearer. By identifying novel usage of data to drive the pattern, it is possible to address fit requirements, illustrate clear benefits of body scanning, and define how the application of technology can evolve pattern drafting practice to allow better engineered garment fit.


3D Body Scanning, Measurement Approximations, Pattern Drafting, Garment Manufacturing, Fashion Technology, Body Morphology, Mass Customization, Pattern Customization, Artificial Intelligence, Generative AI, Digital Fashion, 3D Design


Full paper: PDF
Presentation: VIDEO
Proceedings: 3DBODY.TECH 2023, 17-18 Oct. 2023, Lugano, Switzerland
Paper id#: 45
DOI: 10.15221/23.45

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